Level 2, Furama Riverfront, 405 Havelock Road, Tel: 6739 6468Operating Hours: Lunch: Noon – 2.30pm Dinner: 6pm – 10.30pm

Tucked away on the second floor of the Furama Riverfront (that grand old dame better known by its former name, The Apollo Hotel) this is a rather well-kept secret. Though not obvious from its exterior, The Square @ Furama has recently been extensively and tastefully refurbished to bring it up to date – it’s now modern, bright and airy. Also impressive is the service: professional but not lacking in laid-back charm –you won’t find stuffiness here. The buffet spread itself, though not the most extensive in town, is excellent value for money. No corners are cut here. The salmon sashimi, replenished frequently, is from the belly – the salmon toro, if you will – and melts in the mouth with that slippery, unbelievable fish-fat taste. The yee peow soup is no-holds-barred big boy’s stuff – no dumbing down for Western palates – piles of fish maw in a rich, gelatinous, fishy stock. Besides the usual fare such as satay and roast beef, there are also more interesting items, notably a pumpkin and walnut salad which makes a delightful starter. The dessert spread, however, is uninspired: think that easy get out clause – the chocolate fountain.WINE: Consisting mainly of New World wines, the list is fairly short but good; by-the-glass selection is very stingy though.