This restaurant is a real favourite of mine: a charming French-Vietnamese joint where the atmosphere is luxurious yet warm, unstuffy and relaxed. The food is similarly simple and refined: the cha goi Hanoi (Imperial garden spring rolls) were fragile, crunchy and very delicious, and the cha ca la vong (grilled fish) was fresh as a spring breeze, and packed with subtle, proteinaceous flavours. And they do an excellent pho bo (rice noodle soup with beef). Add to the food some excellent service provided by unpretentious, young and experienced wait staff, and you have a marvellous place for a meal, casual or formal.

WINE: An impressive list of labels with a wide range to suit every dish and palate: many are excellent value too.