While Inagiku is revered for its emphasis on seasonal ingredients, dining here can be a bit of a hit-and-miss affair. Perhaps the most successful hit our evening there was the lovely $90 sushi plate: a generous platter of assorted Piscean delights topped off with a glistening, pearlescent, womb-like sac of gooey salmon roe. How often you are you presented with a ikura whole rather than as pearls? Glossy and nourished with the embryonic fluid of a thousand unborn salmon, we moved on to the tempura moriawase, which included some beautiful fresh flatfish fillets and an assortment of unusual fresh Japanese vegetables, all covered in a light, crispy-soft batter and served with an excellent smoky tentsuyu. The perfectly grilled hamachi cheek was also wonderful - the fresh sweet meat shining through the smoky flavors imbedded in the surface - and the house speciality of kurobuta tonkatsu came with a homemade sauce, which, frankly, put the commercial varieties offered elsewhere to shame. Less successful was the $75 executive set lunch which offered Japanese “fusion” food; cream soup and other such disasters. Chefs take note, dairy has no place in Japanese food (apart from, grudgingly, in the dessert course: there’s just something that works about ice cream after Japanese food). All that being said, stick to the classics at Inagiku and you won’t regret your visit.

Wine: An extensive selection of Old and New World from the hotel's list. Some great (and pricey) sakes are also available.