To experience the most of what this restaurant offers, come early and ask for the chef’s special sashimi moriawase, a wonderful assortment of pingingly fresh fish which serves three to four diners generously. We went for one of these and some fresh top shell, or sazae, which, like many dishes, may be served as sashimi or grilled. We went for the latter, and the mollusk was grilled, sliced, and then lightly simmered in miso soup on its own upturned shell, creating a delicate dish redolent of the barnacle encrusted rocks to which it must have once clung. The hot plate of steaming egg, crabmeat and spinach was a lovely, comforting dish, and contrasted wonderfully with the austere, but delicious, cold soba noodles in dashi. The dessert menu was concise and modern, with choices such as bean curd cheesecake, green tea parfait and refreshing citrus sherbets. However, it was the inspired black sesame and tofu pudding, in all its lovely sweet, silky, wobbly custardy-ness, that had us craving for second helpings.

Wine: The drinks list is comprehensive, with a limited but reliable range of reds and whites. The sake and shochu are better options.