The immediate impression you get when you arrive at Lawry’s is that of tradition: from the high-ceilinged dining room to the mildly twee livery on the staff everything brings to mind the passing of time around of a stalwart of good food, as well as slight confusion regarding the name (is he?). The chef arrived with a portable oven containing a whole rib of beef, from which he carved well-done pieces from the end, rare pieces from the centre, and everything in-between. There was nothing for it, I had to go for the famous Diamond Jim Brady cut, rare, easily 2 inches thick and moist enough to make a grown man weep with pleasure, but some of my (admittedly wimpy) friends went for the California – a slightly more subdued portion of cow. Mercifully no-one in the group went for the cop-out ‘English cut’ - 3 paltry slices that made me consider leaving the restaurant on grounds of racial prejudice (I’m English). Lobster tails were available as a side to the beef or on their own, as was a commendable braised lamb shank, but who goes to a restaurant called ‘Lawry’s the Prime Rib’ and orders lobster? The Beef (capital B intended) was incredible, all USDA prime, well marbled and aged to the point of meltdown. The salad was dressed in a spinning salad bowl by the waitress, which was fun, and served with chilled plates and cutlery, always a bonus in Singapore. Good buttery mashed potatoes helped to mop up the juices, and a crisp, fluffy Yorkshire pudding, along with the commendably sherry-laden trifle for dessert, helped to soothe my national pride. A good but fairly standard selection of Old and New world wines were available, we went for a lovely carafe of a meaty French red, and all was right in the world.

Dated. but a sure hit for first timers.