Kuriya is just the kind of noisy, cheerful place that salarymen - and women - would happily call their favourite watering hole. Of course, apart from the ambience, it also has a lengthy list of Japanese sake and beer, traditional bar food like edamame and yakitori, and an extensive menu for lunch and dinner – making this a great place to go and hang out with some good company, whether or not you’re eating. Dishes range from sashimi and nabe (hotpot with noodles and seafood) to yakiniku, (grilled meat skewers), tempura and rice dishes. We recommend the well-marinated beef tongue skewer - with its smoky flavours and a pleasantly springy texture - as well as the dobinmushi - a clear, light broth served in a small teapot with a tiny cup perched on top - as appetite-teasers. For mains, I went for the gyu tataki, well-marbled beef grilled and served with zingy ponzu (citrus-soy sauce), which cut through the delicious fat beautifully. The staff's recommendation, isaki (grunt fish) done three ways - sashimi, raw with a vinegary ponzu sauce, and grilled - was also a delight. The meat was unbelievably fresh and sweet, and each rendition of it gave a very different taste experience. Those in the know book their table on Tuesday or Friday, because that is when all the fish arrive fresh from Tokyo's seafood markets.

WINE: Don’t make me laugh – this is a place for Japanese sake, shochu, and beer.