As soon as you arrive at Ristorante Bologna it becomes clear you are dealing with a class act. The décor is restrained and elegant, the food is rough and ready, strongly rooted in Italian country cooking, but not lacking a delicate and extravagant touch. A starter of warm puff pastry filled with lobster and porcini mushroom sauce got me off to a good start, whilst my friend went for the roasted scallops with bacon, thyme and asparagus, which utilized the very-well-known-in-Portugal-Italy-and-Spain-but-not-very-well-known-elsewhere combination of charcuterie and shellfish to great effect. A pasta course is available for the greedy - I went for the excellent, firm black tagliolini with sweet, freshly picked crabmeat, and my companion opted for the homemade tortelloni filled with porcini mushroom, parmesan cheese and sage fondue, which reportedly tasted like “a truffle pig rooting around in leaf litter. In a good way.” But of course. For mains, my perfectly grilled cod with orange oil and his Florentine steak performed their job admirably, and for dessert a delicate, refreshing orange sherbet - served with Campari on the side - well and truly finished me off, while a smooth, frothy zabaglione del Bologna did the same for my friend, in style.