Parquet wood floors and a modern chandelier match the modern style of the menu at San Marco. Be sure to book ahead for one of the three tables that are right against the windows - with spectacular views of the city skyline. My starter of crab cannelloni was suitably unctuous, and one of my comrades chose fettuccine with trompet de mort, escargot and roast beef, a truly luxurious dish. My main was a roasted rack of kurobuta piglet, with perfect, crispy crackling, tender, fatty, glazed pork belly and a peppery, bitter and crunchy salad of broad beans, mushrooms and rocket, which cut all the piggy fat admirably. Other highlights included a softer-than-butter wagyu beef tenderloin and an indulgent whole lobster wrapped in pancetta, a more extravagant version of the old classic with monkfish, which was silky, succulent, and infused with the amazing, salty, meaty juices of the pancetta. For dessert, something a bit unusual - a momotaro tomato served with rich vanilla ice cream and a balsamic vinegar emulsion - absolute, unexpected, magic.

San Marco, I love this place!