An evergreen in the local Chinese restaurant scene, Li Bai has managed to stay in this ever changing city with its timelessly elegant decor, tried and tested cuisine, and effortlessly warm and efficient service. My starter of siew mai dim sum instantly stood out from the crowd - rather than the usual minced meat ball of indiscernible flavour, each little parcel was stuffed with succulent chunks of moist meat. Another dish that stood out was the rich seafood broth served in a carved miniature pumpkin – a quirky dish that pleased all my senses. While the usual selection of premium items such as abalone, shark's fin and sea cucumber are offered, these are best avoided – for your pocket and your palate. Their selection of delicate vegetarian fare is far better value taste-wise. But whichever dish you pick, you will be delighted with its execution and the use of seasonal ingredients. The care and attention paid to every dish is remarkable – for example, for my creamy, exquisite dessert of almond cream, a special depth of almond flavour is achieved by carefully mixing Chinese and Western almond varietals. Remarkable.

WINE: The classic wine selection is limited: I would go for the unusual range of rice wines, available on request.