While nothing is perfect, a dining experience at Summer Pavilion can come close to it: with its sophisticated fare, spacious sunlit dining room, and little details such as fresh floral arrangements for the table, everything here provides an aura of calm, luxurious elegance. I went with my waitress’s seasonal recommendation of the venomous stone fish (its spines were removed, and its flesh was delicate, firm and white) and a piquant mantis prawn, delicately seasoned and sauced to complement its sea-fresh flavour. After those winners I have to say I felt the more contemporary dish of stuffed zucchini flowers with minced chicken was rather bland and pointless, but this was more than made up for by the tender wok-fried fillet of beef. It was shown to us in its entirety, steaming with beefy wok ‘hei’, before being meticulously portioned onto plates by our waitress - worthy of its status as a signature dish of the restaurant. , The wait staff - at all levels - are a joy to interact with, being anticipative and friendly, but never intrusive or overly familiar.

WINE: A broad list, covering both Old and New World labels, with helpful tast¬ing notes provided for their delightful house pours.